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I Have My Heart in My Pocket by Jiangliu Dong 2020
Used clothing, text on paper, brass, silk

Jiangliu Dong (董江柳) is a contemporary jewellery artist currently based in the United States. She received her BA in jewellery design from the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology (Beijing, China) and her MFA from Rhode Island School of Design (Providence, US). Jiangliu’s work explores the conversation between the body and the self. Although her earlier works focused on jewellery, her recent inquiries have taken the forms of sculpture, video, installation and writing.

Jiangliu’s work focuses on the critical theory of identity and individual social relationships, including the concepts of rhetorical self, narrative identity and social otherness. Under our contemporary ‘postmodern’ or ‘post-structural’ understanding of the world, we have abandoned the traditional theoretical concept that the existence of the self precedes the world’s influence. Jiangliu’s works explore the possibility of personal identity in this context.

I Have My Heart in My Pocket is an installation that adopts jewellery as an essential element. In this work, Jiangliu employs used clothing as the primary material and concept carrier due to its intimate relationship with the body. Clothing is an apparition; it evolves from a room for the body to a symbol of space and memory. When separated from the body, clothing simultaneously represents its presence and absence. Pre-worn clothing mimics ‘experiencing others’ experiences,’ a metaphor for how intermixed layers of identity are exchanged within a social environment.

www.jiangliuart.com/ IG: www.instagram.com/jldoppelart/

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Uroboro by Francesca Guarnieri
2022
Marble

Francesca is an Italian artist currently based in Romania. The body is the scenery and subject of her work. She creates ornaments and ritual objects that are often involved in a performative and photographic outcome.

Gathering diverse cultural references, found objects, waste, paradox and randomness, she aims to achieve archetypal images that stand across time.

The Burial series is composed of three pieces carved in marble using parts of broken tombstones. It was exhibited in March 2022 at Bayerischer Kunstgewerbeverein as part of the group show Metamorphoses.

www.francescasantasubito.com/

IG:www.instagram.com/francescasantasubito/

1b:T841,

Ash, Mildura Dust, Hailstones by Helen Dilkes
2020
Dad’s white watercolour card, residue acrylic paint, acrylic sheet, 925 silver, resin, pearlescent pigment

Helen Dilkes is an artist-jeweller-researcher based in Wurundjeri country in Victoria, Australia. Helen completed a PhD at the School of Art at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology (RMIT) in 2017. She holds an MFA from RMIT (gold and silversmithing), an MEd from the University of Melbourne (visual and performing art) and a BMus from the University of Western Australia (performance).

Dilkes has held two recent solo exhibitions: Geometries in time… slicing the cone at Red Gallery in Victoria, Australia in 2022 (postponed from 2020 until spring 2022) and Time Concertinaed…, a body of works from Geometries in time…, exhibited online during the Radiant Pavilion biennial in 2021. Dilkes has exhibited work in numerous international solo and group exhibitions.

Helen Dilkes’ work explores ideas of duration and multiplicity, specifically relating to the geometry of the cone and ellipse. Dilkes made the neckpiece Ash, Mildura dust, hailstones during the COVID-19 pandemic, following Australia’s extreme hail and dust storms and wildfires the year prior. Dilkes resin cast 15mm hailstones she had collected, dabbed ellipses she cut from her father’s watercolour pad in residual paint from a body of Mildura dust earrings, and used an existing sketch as the basis for 3D-printed structures to support the hailstones.

This neckpiece is a poignant example of Dilkes’ recent approach, which utilises concepts and materials close at hand. Although she has long been surrounded by a home full of a life’s worth of materials, these particular times afforded (and demanded) a refocusing of her attention.

www.helendilkes.com/ IG: www.instagram.com/helendilkes/

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Perlen & Kette by Kristin Jankowski
2021
Fresh water pearls, silver

Kirstin Jankowski is a state-certified jewellery designer and a master goldsmith and silversmith. She is the owner/creative head of ZWEI MACHEN SCHMUCK, which she founded together with Julia Steinhoff and now runs independently.

After her apprenticeship in Essen, Germany, Jankowski spent part of her journeyman’s time in London in Tina Engell’s studio, supported by a scholarship from the European Union. Jankowski regularly takes part in national exhibitions and competitions. In her first year as a master goldsmith, she won first prize in the jewellery section of the design competition Junges Handwerk Nordrhein-Westfalen. Her ring, Small Bowls, was awarded the German Design Award in 2019. She is a member of the Forum for Jewellery and Design and the German Crafts Association – the German Crafts Council.

www.zweimachenschmuck.com/ IG: www.instagram.com/zweimachenschmuck/

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She Can Play by Sandrine Linarès
2021
Natural rye straw, gold broken jewels

Several craft disciplines, including basketry, have locked themselves into a particular set of emblematic forms, defined by the spirits of bygone eras and forged into the discipline’s collective identity despite their obsolescence.

Sandrine Linarès analyses the emergence and functions of these emblems, considers how they can be ‘recovered’ and then ‘readapts’ them into new forms. Her rearrangements of familiar visual content encourage the spectator to take a new, poetic point of view: the familiar becomes unfamiliar, and this newfound distance from archetypes offers a paradoxically intimate experience.

Linarès weaves small-format baskets from rye straw, a humble material she sources from the intermingling meadows and forests of Margeride, France. The immense palette of this landscape provides her with the inspiration to create her sun-soaked jewellery universe.

www.eclatsdepaille.com/ IG: www.instagram.com/eclatsdepaille/

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Mundus by Studio C – Charlotte Romer
2021
Aluminium, yellow citrine (13,46 k)

After graduating in art history from the Sorbonne and the Ecole du Louvre (Paris, France), Charlotte Romer entered the art market and joined Sotheby’s in Paris. She spent the following nine years at a gallery specialising in 20th-century decorative arts in the heart of Saint-Germain des Prés before returning to her first loves: jewellery, gemstones, mechanics and photography. She founded her atelier, Studio C, in 2020 after specialising in gemmology at the Gemmological Association of Great Britain.

Her first collection, Mundus, draws its inspiration from the powerful, resolutely contemporary world of precision mechanics and France’s long-standing jewellery tradition. The artist reworked an almost-floral propeller form inspired by the aircraft industry to produce surrealistic and sculptural jewels. Romer retained the form’s original material, aluminium, for its lightness and luminousness. This utilitarian metal breathes life into the Mundus series by juxtaposing with precious citrine stones, which sparkle as light passes delicately through their facets. The back of the piece presents Studio C’s signature: four custom-made screws engraved with a C.

studioc-paris.com/en/home IG: www.instagram.com/studioc_jewellery/

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SYMBIOSIS by Sue Muir
2021
Silver wire

FLO Design Co. is a boutique jewellery studio based in beautiful Vancouver, Canada. Designer Sue Muir worked as a professional photographer for many years before entering into jewellery design, and she applies her instinctive, spontaneous photographic approach to creating freeform, ‘perfectly imperfect’ jewellery. Her process is unscripted and spur-of-the-moment; she prefers to let the materials guide her. She affectionately refers to this approach as ‘following the flo.’

The SYMBIOSIS series explores the curious interdependence of all living organic matter, represented, in this case, by the mother oyster shell. The destinies of the tiny polyps adhered to the shells are a mystery: Will they grow into edible molluscs? Into pearls? Only time will tell. Their interdependence is the only thing we can be sure of, as it is a universal constant.

flodesignco.com/ IG: www.instagram.com/flodesigncocanada/

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Paradise Papers by Ute van der Plaats
2020
Porcelain, acrylic glass, pieces of real 25 and 50 Dutch guilder banknotes, gold plated brass, let lights, rechargeable batteries, magnets

Ute van der Plaats is a German-born jewellery designer currently based in Belgium. She has exhibited in many renowned international exhibitions, from France to Tokyo, to the United States. She is the winner of the LOOT Acquisition Prize 2017 from the Museum of Arts and Design in New York City. She has received degrees in history from Vrije Universiteit (Amsterdam, the Netherlands); contemporary jewelry design from RHoK Academie Beeldende Kunsten (Brussels, Belgium); and applied graphic design from BKO Academie Beeldende Kunsten (Overijse, Belgium).

Porcelain, the white ‘gold,’ is the primary medium in Ute van der Plaats’ work; she is fascinated by the tension between the fragile appearance and the actual strength of porcelain. She likes to push the boundaries of jewellery making by combining modern digital technologies with traditional craftsmanship.

This necklace is inspired by the ‘Paradise Papers,’ a massive leak of financial documents that revealed how multinationals and wealthy individuals use so-called ‘tax havens’ to avoid paying taxes. In 2019, the Netherlands, the artist’s home for many years, was exposed by the European Parliament as one of these tax havens. The artist aims to throw literal light on the subject to make the broader public aware of it in a playful way. The colourful collages of hand-cut authentic Dutch guilder banknotes (the beautiful pre-Euro currency of the Netherlands) allude symbolically to the Dutch involvement.

IG: www.instagram.com/utevanderplaats/

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Toran by Vershali Jain
2021
Silver, copper, steel, vitreous enamel, cotton cord

Born in Udaipur, Rajasthan in India, Vershali Jain received her MA in jewellery and silversmithing from Edinburgh College of Art (Edinburgh, Scotland). Through her practice, Jain channels the dual identity she developed by living and travelling abroad while following the values of her Indian cultural heritage. Vershali currently works from her jewellery studio in Palo Alto, California, in the United States.

Drawing on her interest in Indian motifs and connecting them to her ever-changing surroundings, she explores layered relationships in her enamelled jewellery. She forms her vibrant, textural pieces from thin strips of metal wrapped into voluminous linear forms and bound with colourful molten enamel.

‘Hanging Toran’ is an Indian custom of hanging garlands of marigold flowers and mango leaves over doorways to repel the evil eye and welcome new beginnings, energy and life. The Hanging Toran necklace is part of the artist’s current series inspired by the Japanese phrase ‘Natsukashii,’ which translates to ‘bitter-sweet remembrances.’ Jain moulds her fond memories into sentimental sculptural jewellery pieces in this series.

www.vershalijain.com/ IG: www.instagram.com/vershali_jain/

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by Stefanie Röhnisch, 2022

Stefanie Röhnisch (DE) is an artist and illustrator based in Berlin, Germany. Comprised of organic shapes and structures, she looks to nature as inspiration for her colorful creations. Depicting close human connections, she wants her work to champion solitude and calm seclusion.

www.stefanieroehnisch.de
\nIG: @stiefbert

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Galets I by Damaris Durrleman
\n2020
\nGoldplated brass and sea pebbles

Born and raised in the field of contemporary art and creation, Damaris Durrleman discovered the jewellery’s world after studying business and design. Energized to create comfortable and practical jewellery sustainably, she learned to work with both metal and unconventional material. Her work is the result of a passionate double research in two areas: an instinctive quest on movement, equilibrium and light, and the use of unseen and natural materials.

Asymmetric and graphic earrings playing with the light, showcasing sea pebbles that have been collected on the seaside. The viewers’ surprised question “what are those stones ?” is an invitation to look at lagging unseen beauties.

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